A-4PTM 1/48........PTM(Pakai Tangkap Muat)....kekekeke.....yg ni saya tunjuk sikit mcmane nakairbrush camou

KIT-Hasegawa A-4C
DECAL-VFA Productions
PILOT-PJ productions

Usually we can see the complete models only on the last post right, but because of the Photobucket problem, I purposely show this complete model first than I will post the W.I.P later ok.So stay tune ......Here a complete one.....



Photo a bit dark,I will post more photo of this scooter,a good onelah on the last post……

This is considering OOB build, not that tough as a HAWK 200.But a major problem is pilot (PJ productions) too big. I have to do a lot of modifications and trimming on the pilot it self. The most headaches is, I’ve glued all part including pilot together, because I worried if I do it separately, might be a problem when come to the fitting part.Because I have to make sure canopy can close properly before I joined the fuselage.

And now, I have to paint pilot and cockpit in one go. It is not a good idea too, but for me painting is much easier than canopy can't fit properly. Let see how its go…

Some modifications on his arm........



Wite Gunze primer 1000

spray flat black to the wole area......

Apply interior color to the whole area........


And detailing.........Not as good as resin product,but that is the best i can do...


Now come to the fitting stage.......




As usual, do not worry about Hasegawa then, fitting awesome, panel line superb. Just lilbit of putty and sometimes not even have too.

some modificaion needed to match our scooter....

THATS ALL ABAUT IT NOW,WILL BE COTINUE.....STAY TUNE......AND HAPPY MODELING.....

Terima Kasih
Dremel

Some up date here.....

Canopy, must dip in future as usual, let dry, masking and placed it on.

Because of Hasegawa kit, I just apply primer on the putty line to check the uneven surface. Other than that no need, but make sure all surface are smooth. Sand it with 1000 grade sand paper, and get ready for painting stage. In addition, do not forget to clean up your panel line. B)




Painting stage

I used gunze 303 and 309 as mentioned in VFA instructions, the dark green closed enough but the light one-lilbit difference from a reference I had. Even though we cannot compare printing and the real aircraft as well, maybe its will be difference again.

Camouflage-I prefer free hand than masking because its more realistic if we can get it sharp enough. Masking method is effective too and easier. It is up to us, which is comfortable. :rolleyes:

I prefer pattern-by-pattern spraying technique’s, because its will not waste our paint then. Usually I will start with light color, and dark tone will come later. Actually, you can start with any color you want.. I would like to use a very thin ratio of color mix.75%-25%, and do not let your airbrush in vertical position when spray the camo patern.Keep it 45 deg. In addition, keep spray inner area for each pattern.

For thin ratio paint, the best pressure is 30- 35 psi, and it is depending on your spray technique as well. If you want it to be faster you can add pressure to 45-50 psi,but you must move your hand faster then, maybe its will hard to tackle the pattern though. And again its up to youlah……

Airbrush is a magic tool for me, so explore to the maximum, you can do more than camo or just masking.

Ops sorry I don’t have W.I.P for this part, However, I would like to borrowed from TA-4 TPM W.I.P painting stage(never showed before) to describe this ……….





And A-4C -Will turn out like this........






That is all for now, will be continue…thanks for viewing………….
Any comment and critic are welcome,HAPPY MDELLING AND KEEP IT REALLLL

TWO CENTS

Terima Ksih
Dremel

Sambung lagi..Next stage weathering

This bird I will apply highly weathered, until you cannot see the separations of the camo.It is weathered and faded.....betul.... don't play play ha

As usual would like enamel base paints for my washing technique. Oil paint from art shop also will do but I am not very familiar with it.

This method will go with lacquer base color only. If your models painted with water base or enamel base, than do not use enamel paint for washing. Its will spoil your paint job. Unless the models covered with future then. That one I am not very familiar too. Maybe other forumer can explain about that.

Ratio? Just make it thin....donno how to explain. See photo below......



After wash, clean it up




Terima Kasih
Dremel

After weathering ……is that look good?...I don’t know…..

[IMG]https://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t42/craftusiast/ok last update,

Matt cote




And second stage weathering,

This stage I have to use all my experience to get it right.No specific technique,its all about how I want it to be.Focus to weathered and faded……….maybe its not much diffrence from the first one,but its IMG_1594.jpg[/IMG]










MISSION COMPLETE........

P/s-single tone color is much easier to apply weathering, but not on camo,especially in the dark color, what I just do is, play around with black wash, three tone of an airbrush stroke and a bit of light tone patches on the panel and that’s it.Oh ya ,matt cote after that.

Thanks guy for your comment,critic and encouragement......i will appreciate it.

English Phua Chu Kang haaa....jgn maraaaaaa.......hahahahah

Thanks
Dremel

Fuh!!!! alat2 semua complete kalo bakat takde...tak jadi jugak ni Dremel...
Aku bangga betullah, rupa2nya ramai anak melayu terkedepan dlm dunia
modeling ni....

thanks la bro...xder ape pon yg bestnye sgt... cam org len gak keje....ehehe...
saya pon xder pakai branded gear tools....semua ala kadar jer.....saya berpendapat...the best tools is our two hands....the best refrences...is our brain and creativity.....the rest hanya nasi dan lauk tambah jer....

memang terbaik naza. ni yang buat aku teringin nak award contract bina, pasang dan menyiapkan 1/72 A-4PTM skyhawk kat hang ni.

mmmm...LS dah terbakaq dah...neway, Naza ko memang POWER KEBABOM...